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BIRDING SAFARIS
Province: Zululand
Route: Phinda Resource Reserve
BIRDING IN THE PHINDA RESOURCE RESERVE - 3.4
Phinda Resource Reserve is a private game reserve of about 14 000ha. It
borders Mkhuze Game Reserve on the west and the Greater St.Lucia Wetland
Park on the east. The main attraction is the diversity of seven distinct
ecosystems within the reserve that provide ample opportunity for great
birding and also prime big game viewing. Game drives and walks turn up
much more than birds with lion, leopard, elephant, cheetah, rhino and
fantastic flowers, butterflies and frogs to be seen. Over 350 bird species
have been recorded on the reserve.
SPECIALS
Special birds to be seen are Southern Banded Snake Eagle, African Finfoot,
Whitebacked Night Heron, Narina Trogon, Rudd’s Apalis, Yellowspotted
Nicator, African Broadbill, Green Twinspot, Pinkthroated Twinspot,
Neergaard’s Sunbird, Lemonbreasted Canary, Redwinged Pratincole,
Gorgeous Bush Shrike, and Cuckoo Hawk. Rarities are Pel’s Fishing Owl,
Palmnut Vulture, Natal Nightjar, Black Coucal and Dwarf Bittern.
HABITATS
Thesouth is dominated by Acacia savanna and punctuated by well-wooded
drainage lines and seasonal pans. There is a stretch of rocky hillside,
which is the southern-most tip of the Ubombo mountain range. The Mzinene,
Mhlosinga and Munywana rivers all run a course through the south of Phinda.
Two are seasonal and the Mzinene is perennial. A floodplain and stands of
fever trees make up the rest of the south.
Ilala palm savanna, broadleaved woodland and the Mziki Marsh are features
of the north. The highlight here is over a 1000ha of Sand Forest. (This
contains the largest private stand of mature forest).
FACILITIES
Being a private reserve, all drives and walks are guided for guests
staying at any of the four lodges. There is no public access. Day trips
(either evening or morning drives) are available on request at the
individual lodges, but are limited if the lodges are busy. Accommodation
in the south is at Mountain Lodge (20 rooms) and Rock Lodge (6 rooms). In
the north it is at Forest Lodge (16 rooms) and Vlei Lodge (6 rooms). The
game drives can access any part of the reserve. Small motorised boats or
canoes can be used to experience the splendour of the Mzinene River. Game
drives are 3-4 hours long in the morning and again in the evening. Morning
walks usually go from the lodge at around 11am. There is a small rustic
bird hide in the sand forest at Forest Lodge where guests can sit during
the day. There are plans afoot to construct unobtrusive, small hides at
each lodge as well as one at a more remote setting at a pan amongst
termitaria thickets in the south.
BIRDING
The general birding is good and it is easy to spot 50-80 birds on a drive.
Many of the special birds are common, but others require a bit of
searching. Some of the forest areas are really dense, but there are large
open areas interspersed throughout the whole reserve. 24hr birding trips
in November can produce over 200 species, up to 230. this is including a
few small areas adjacent to the reserve. Monthly totals recorded are in
excess of 200.
1. River cruise/canoe trip on Mzinene River
There are tall reedbeds, good overhanging vegetation and also sections
with mature fig and fever trees. There are lots of weeping boer-beans on
the banks, which provides for good late winter/spring birding. More time
can be spent on the river in winter as the heat is less oppressive than in
summer. Resident, breeding Whitebacked Night Herons are a highlight. There
are possibly two pairs, one of which last nested right out in the open.
Good viewing of Purple Heron, Little Bittern, breeding Goliath Heron,
Squacco Heron and Blackcrowned Night Heron can be had, especially in the
evenings at the large heronries in the reedbeds. Pel’s Fishing Owl can
be seen in dry years when the smaller rivers in the area dry up. African
Finfoot is a regular and must be looked for near the overhanging
vegetation. Weavers, including Brownthroated are abundant and visible
breeders in the spring and summer months. Large flocks of Redbilled
Queleas roost in the reedbeds and are sometimes accompanied by a fair
number of Redheaded Queleas. The vast lily pad areas provide excellent
viewing of breeding African Jacanas, Black Crakes and Purple Gallinules.
African Fish Eagle and Wahlberg’s Eagle breed in trees right next to the
river. The river is also good for other raptors like Southern Banded Snake
Eagle, Cuckoo Hawk, Longcrested Eagle and Osprey (usually year round). The
close up viewing of Malachite Kingfishers on this river is awesome too.
Birds which make odd appearances are Caspian Terns, Halfcollared
Kingfishers and Flamingos in the shallow pans adjacent to the river. Grey
and Purplebanded Sunbirds are regular. Crocodiles are common, hippos less
so and other game like elephant can also be spotted.
2. Drive/walk on Inkwazi Floodplain
The floodplain is most productive after good rains in summer. Black
Coucals possibly breed here and African Crakes are common. Redchested
Flufftails and African Rails are resident, but elusive in the taller
reeds. This is also the best area for Broadtailed Warbler, Blackbacked and
Redfaced Cisticolas. In times of flooding, White Pelicans flock here.
African Marsh Harriers patrol regularly. In summer, Redwinged Pratincoles
and Bluecheeked Bee-eaters are common. It is also good for swallows like
Greyrumped, Redbreasted and Wiretailed as well as Banded and Sand Martins.
Raptor viewing is generally very good due to the updraft against the ridge
around the floodplain. Good savanna birds like Pinkthroated Twinspot are
common in the woodland right on the edge of the floodplain.
3. Drive around/walk Ntabankosi Mountain
This is the only place to see Mocking Chats and Striped Pipit and is also
good for raptors and swifts. Stierling’s Barred Warbler occurs on sparse
gravely sections of the mountain, but care must be taken not to confuse
the call with the Neddicky which is common. The drainage lines have Narina
Trogon and in summer Emerald and other cuckoos are found. Pinkthroated
Twinspots and Yellowspotted Nicators are common throughout. Where the
mountain steeps down to the Mhlosinga River, Crowned Eagles nest
successfully every year in an open sycamore fig. Check the candelabra
trees here for Brown Snake Eagle. Greater and Scalythroated Honeyguides
are found at many perches throughout. Bateleur and Wahlberg’s Eagle nest
on the mountain. In winter the flowering Mountain Aloes are brilliant for
sunbirds, weavers and Blackheaded Oriole. Rock Buntings have been seen in
recent months and Lemonbreasted Canaries are found at the foothill near
Main Gate.
4. General game drive through the South
The habitat is variable which can make for excellent birding. There are
two small patches of Sand forest where most of the typical specials occur.
African Broadbill is one and can also be heard calling in some of the
taller drainage lines near Mvubu Dam. Rudd’s Apalis, Black Cuckooshrikes
and Grey Penduline Tits are common in bird parties, especially in winter.
This also a good time for viewing the many flycatcher species. The endemic
Fiscal Flycatcher and the Dusky both visit Phinda more in the winter
months. Drainage lines and the Munywana River which is enclosed by
riverine forest are excellent habitat for Eastern Bearded Robin, Gorgeous
Bush Shrike, African Broadbill, Green Coucal, Narina Trogon, Trumpeter
Hornbill, Green Pigeon, Crested Guinea-fowl and White-eared Barbets. Wood
Owls are also fairly common and can be seen on night drives. Night drives
can also produce Bronzewinged Courser, Scops, Barn or Spotted Eagle Owls
and also Fierynecked and in summer European Nightjars. Barred Owl is
regularly heard in the riverine forest near the Mzinene River, but rarely
seen. In summer, flocks of up to 15 Broadbilled Rollers can be seen at all
times of the day in the dead trees between all the main dams. This is also
the favourite haunt of the Osprey. In the pans and depressions, African
Crake, Dwarf Bittern, Lesser Moorhen and Lesser Gallinule can be found and
the dams must be checked carefully for Green Sandpiper. Pygmy Geese and
Whitefaced Duck are to be found at Ximongwe Dam. In the open grassland,
Corncrake, Black Coucal, Kurrichane Buttonquail, Croaking Cisticola and
Blackbellied Korhaan are evident. In the late summer, the thicket/tangles
areas are good for Willow, Icterine and Garden Warblers. In the dry
season, Eastern White Pelicans and Ethiopian Snipe are regularly seen at
Mvubu Dam. Palmnut Vultures are seen anywhere, anytime of year and kills
should be checked carefully for them as they tend to sit to the side
quietly waiting for the Whitebacked and Lappetfaced Vultures to finish.
Bird parties in the Acacia thornveld must be checked for Twinspots, Grey
Waxbills, Yellowbellied and Burntnecked Eremomelas, Melba Finches,
Redbilled, Bluebilled and Jameson’s Firefinches.
5. Drive/walk through Ilala Palmveld
This area is also interspersed with termitaria thickets and drainage
lines, so lots can be found. Birds to look for are Lemonbreasted Canary,
which breed in the palms, Flappet Lark and Blackbellied Korhaan. Raptors
most frequently seen are Blackshouldered Kite, Blackbreasted Snake Eagle
and Martial Eagle. Shelley’s Francolin is heard more often than seen.
Wattled and Lesser Blackwinged Plovers are especially common after fires.
6. Walk in mature Sand Forest to small hide
African Broadbills are common in the tall mature stands and the patient
observer can watch them display. Their calls are heard distinctly from the
rooms in the Forest and Vlei lodges early in the morning. Narina Trogon is
common and in spring/early summer as many as six have been seen calling in
the same place. Bluemantled Flycatchers and Forest Weavers abound. The
small birdbath at the hide is a constant attraction to both Pinkthroated
and Green Twinspots. Nyala, Red Duiker, Suni and Tonga Red Squirrel are
mammals to be seen at the hide too. Yellowbellied and Terrestrial Bulbuls,
Yellowspotted Nicators and Tambourine Doves are regular and constantly
alert to the dashing African Goshawks and Little Sparrowhawks. Listen
carefully for the sunbirds. Neergaard’s is common. The best time to view
them is when the weeping boer-beans are flowering in late winter and
spring. Up to six species can easily be seen in the same tree. These are
Scarletchested, Collared, Whitebellied, Grey, Purplebanded and
Neergaard’s. In the clearings in the forest, Grey Waxbills,
Stierling’s Barred Warbler, Black and Grey Cuckooshrikes and flycatchers
abound. Look and listen around Nobonobo for Southern Banded Snake Eagle.
At night, Wood Owls are the most vocal, but Barred and Giant Eagle Owls
are also around. Crowned Eagles nest in a massive torchwood in the forest
and Crowned Hornbills nest in the older trees too.
7. Drive around the northern clearings and Mziki Marsh
Lesser Blackwinged Plovers breed here after the winter fires. Charcoal
Clearings has Bearded Woodpecker, nesting Wahlberg’s Eagles and is also
good for seeing all three Snake Eagle species. The pans in the area
support breeding jacanas, breeding Whitebacked Duck and occasionally Pygmy
Geese and Saddlebilled Stork. Pinkbacked Pelicans also visit these pans.
Mziki Marsh is good for African Marsh Harrier, Black Coucal, Dwarf Bittern
and Redwinged Pratincoles, especially after heavy rains. Eastern Redfooted
Kestrels flock here in summer. Sunset is a good time here as Fierynecked,
Mozambique and Natal Nightjars are easily located by their distinctive
calls. Barn, Marsh and Whitefaced Owls are to be found at night in the
marsh or woodland of the far north.
GENERAL
Phinda is well sign-posted as part of Southern Maputaland from the N2
about 10km north of Hluhluwe. This is the best access to Mountain and Rock
Lodges. Access to Forest and Vlei Lodges is best off the tar road on the
False Bay side, by following the Sodwana Bay signposts from Hluhluwe.
Afternoon game drives meet at 4pm in summer and at 3:30pm in winter. Rates
and bookings for day trips are available on request at the lodges
themselves. Accommodation enquiries can be done at central reservations.
Guests should specify birding as a priority when booking so that the
lodges can receive that information ahead of time.
Write-up By Alastair Kilpin
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