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Nature Reserves :
Gamkaberg Nature Reserve
Province: Western Cape Cape
Nearest Towns: Calitzdorp
Background
To seek a place out, despite, or rather, specifically because of its dark, imperious mien, is the essence of travel. And to get there before anyone we know has, is where the real adventure lies. But to find that not only was the getting there, but what is hid- den there, every bit as exciting as it might have been for the adventurous traveller of 300 years past, is reward indeed. We are fortunate in Africa; the land forever heightens our sense of exploration, its expanses and its wildness. And we need not go far to find it. This is particularly so with the Gamkaberg Nature Reserve -such space and detachment, so close to towns and people. The brooding Gamkaberg, together with the equally mysterious Rooiberg, appear to have been laid down as one over the low- lands of the Little Karoo, like a huge dyke between the Swartberg, the Outeniquas and the ocean. But they are riven by the Gouritz River that slides from the heights of the Swartberg and heads for the sea south of Mossel Bay. The Gamka is therefore a range. in isolation. Its name is derived from the Khoisan, gami, meaning lion, Cape lion, once so successful and confident here, now extinct. Theirs was a rapid decline. As the humans approached, so the lions withdrew. Deep, scarified ravines cut the side of the Garnkaberg. From a distance and against the rest of the mountain's dun suffusion, they are practically invisible. And to be alone in one of them is as if one was the last there, with the last lion, the whole world now inexplicably uninhabited. The Gamkaberg Nature Reserve was established in 1974 to conserve a small, remnant herd of endangered Cape moun- tain zebra. They numbered 13 in 1970 and five in 1976 (six were shot by a local farmer in one outing). There are now 30 of them. The struggle continues.
Facilities
It is through exploration of the Tierkloof ravine (pictured above), in particular, that most visitors come to know Gamkaberg. In Tierkloof's maw, in the
riverine thicket, is a bush camp. Of all of Cape Nature Conservation's reserves, nowhere will your sense of seclusion and rustication be greater. It is constructed of thatch, wood and reed. Nothing jars. Even leopard have been known to pass close by. And at night, on a full moon, doves call from the thorn trees, hoping to gain revolutionary advantage.
The spacious and comfortable main hut has one double bed and two singles. Also within this hut is the kitchen, with utensils, a gas fridge and stove, and a gas water heater at the sink. There is a food preparation table and a dining table. Gas and paraffin lamps are provided. There are a further four beds in two semi-permanent tents pitched under their own reed roofs a short distance from the main hut. The reed and thatch ablution facilities, along a path- way lit by a hurricane lamp, consist of two flush toilets, a hot-water shower and an outside basin. Alongside the main hut is a welcoming lapa, with its own table, chairs and braai area. Just beyond the lapa is a cement dam with a sheltered deck, that in summer, when temperatures hit the 405, you will have difficulty keeping out of. The complex is wheelchair-friendly.
Hiking
On a flat on top of Gamka, 12 km from the bush camp, is Oukraal, a stone shelter in the mountain fynbos. It is reached through the top end of the Tierkloof -an easy tomoderate six- to eight-hour hike that winds against the river course. This is an overnight trail, a circular route limited to 12 people. The return leg is shorter. But if you thought the bush camp was close to nature, Oukraal is actually in nature, so do not expect comforts other than a mattress (six are provided). You will sleep in the stone shelter, easily mistaken for a koppie, unless you prefer to lug a tent. Even the lavatory appears to teeter above a 400 m precipice. Hence the name: long drop. Things are rarefied up here. And at midnight, when only the endangered and testy honey badger is likely to be about, your fire will cast a special glow against the rocks. Wood is provided.
Tips .
Whether you are a 4x4 enthusiast, a hiker or simply enjoy the outdoors, if you book, you will have the facilities to yourself and will not have to share with another party
Longer, alternative 4x4 routes do exist in the area. Enquire from management
Gamkaberg has more than 20 rock art sites -a guide can be arranged.Mountain bikers should enquire after the approximately 30 km of incredibly wild overnight trailing currently being set up iri the shadow of the Rooiberg.
There is no cellphone reception.
Getting there
From Cape Town to the reserve is about 420 km. But from Calitzdorp it is only 32 km. Follow the signs from Andries Pretorius Road. You can also get there from Oudtshoorn (33 km). Follow the signs a few kilometres outside of town on the R62. Or if you are coming up from the coast, take the Hartenbos turn-off near MosselBay and the Robinson Pass to the R62 outside Oudtshoorn.
Enquiries and bookings
Tel/fax: 27 44 213 3367
Bookings:
Tel: 27 44 874 2184
Fax: 27 44 874 1567
E-mail:george@cnc.org.za
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